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Wine Reviews 2017 VHR Cabernet Sauvignon

Jancis Robinson, JancisRobinson.com  <span>Aug. 7, 2024</span>

Another nightmare year of ‘maybe this climate change thing is real’. Hail in June and lots of voles! This was the year of wildfires late in the growing season. Deep blackish purple. Very intense nose, like an essence of that oyster-shell aroma. Very smooth tannins (which were initially very tough, apparently) and lovely balance. Sophisticated and quite gentle.  18 of 20 pts.


Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate  <span>Jan. 31, 2024</span>

Vine Hill Ranch (VHR) is situated at the southern end of Oakville, bounded by Harlan Estate to the north, Beckstoffer’s Missouri Hopper to the east (those 40 acres were once part of the VHR property) and Hopper Creek and Dominus Estate to the south. The property, owned by the Phillips family, consists of 600 acres, of which 70 are planted almost entirely to Cabernet Sauvignon. VHR are first and foremost grape growers, boasting 13 winery partners, eight of whom bottle single-vineyard wines from the property. Managing Partner Bruce Phillips points out that the parts of the vineyard that extend up into the foothills of the Mayacamas produce wines with more tannins and darker fruit than the benchland sites.

Winemaking is under the supervision of Françoise Peschon (ex-Araujo Estate), who says that the goal “is the truest expression of site and vintage, which takes a lot of pressure off.” Different vineyard parcels are picked and fermented separately following a short cold maceration. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, with about 60% new French oak used in the 22-month élevage (more prior to 2018).

At the small house on the property, I was able to taste a short vertical of the VHR Cabernet Sauvignon, from 2016 through to the soon-to-be-released 2021. All the vintages were singing, although my favorite was the 100-point 2019, which showed just an extra level of opulence when compared to the more elegant and aristocratic 2018 and 2021 vintages.

While the VHR Cabernet Sauvignon is primarily available through the winery’s mailing list—the 2021 should be released in February 2024—there is an affiliated label, Baker & Hamilton, that is distributed via the trade in California.

2017 VHR, Vine Hill Ranch
Compared to the vintages on either side, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is the weaker link, but it’s still an excellent wine. Hints of barrel char and dark chocolate join red berries on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied and concentrated, with some dusty tannins taking a prominent role on the finish.  93 pts.


Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media, vinous.com  <span>Dec. 2018</span>

Tasted from a core blend, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. Pliant, supple and beautifully radiant, the 2017 has so much to offer. Silky tannins and plush, racy fruit are two of the many signatures in this exceptionally polished, sensual wine. The 2017 is an unbelievably beautiful, sensual Cabernet with tons of potential.   94–97 pts.

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